A Teacher trying to Divide - day 12
at The Wise River Club
Friday 19th July
I had a long lie and went across to the ‘Club for breakfast. Breakfast was served in a small room between the bar and the hotel part. I shared a booth with the young rider I met near I-15 yesterday. He told me that he had been given the phone number of some people in Clark who let riders camp on their lawn. Multiple refills of coffee got me woken up and ready for a long day or R & R.
Later that morning Susan, one of the women who works at the ‘Club sat down with me and listened to my story. She passed no judgement about my reasons for stopping here for a couple of days. I would imagine over the years she has seen it all from riders on the Tour Divide and the GDMBR. In June this place must be absolutely jumping with racers from dawn till dusk and beyond! Susan listened carefully to what sort of daily distances I had been doing then she helped me put together a five day plan to get me to Yellowstone National Park where I would have to make a final decision. If I left on Sunday I could ride 68, 68, 50, 69 and 62 mile days which was a more modest target that should in theory mean less time in the high temperatures on my Brooks saddle. It was so cool to be sitting with this unassuming lady with so much knowledge of the riding ahead of me as well as the roads, trails, ranches and towns. Everyone looked after me well during my stay here but Susan treated me with extra calm patience.
In the mid morning I took a walk up to the grocery store to get some food for lunch and for something to do. The store had the usual spread of carbs/sugar/fat for riders and plenty of fishing and hunting tackle. The woman at the counter insisted that I signed the book for riders on the Divide. This was another way to keep up with loose acquaintances on their way South.
After lunch I met Tom, the owner of The Wise River Club. He was from Balloch, near Glasgow originally and as a young man had trained as a baker. Tom proudly told me that this had allowed him to come across to the States and travel all over whilst working. I didn’t pry too much but judging by looks and accents there were a couple of generations of extended family here too. He told me that he was hosting some War Veterans this weekend. These men who had given way too much serving their country were spending a few days fishing and the week was going to be finished off at the ‘Club with a big meal and party tonight. The way that Tom spoke about all of this showed how much he loved his new home and also how much he had become part of it.
In the afternoon the realisation that my ride might be over came tumbling back. I simply had to speak to Rachel as I knew that would help. Again and again and again her phone rang out with no answer. Wrapped up in my old little, self-indulgent world I couldn’t visualize why this might be the case so I pinged Al a text to ask her to phone me. Al knew something was up too. As his reply went something along lines of ‘If you need to rant, or download just get in touch again.’ Al was able to empathise because he has been here twice: once on a successful run in 2012 and another attempt in 2015. I still remember the first time I heard him talk about the Divide a few years back. He was explaining the different ways to behave if you were being mauled by a brown bear or a grizzly bear! Al then casually mentioned some of the distances that he had been covering. I think I asked him about what kind of road bike he was on. Then Al explained that these 100, 120 mile days were on a mountain bike. By the time 2015 had come around I was fully focused on his dot on Trackleaders. Me and my family made a special care package of some bars, gels and a bear talisman for Al and mailed it to a US Post Office en route. I did not have a clue about the route and I think Al had ridden through the town before the package even arrived!
When Rachel phoned she was pretty pissed off. She thought that there was something wrong. The SPOT hadn’t gone off so I wasn’t badly injured or in an emergency situation. Her phone had shown loads of missed calls. Then a text from Al asking her to contact me. Over the years we have been together Rachel has put up with me being away doing my own thing a lot. Personal trips to the mountains, guiding clients in the mountains, training & assessments in the mountains… you get the picture? She deals with it in her own way whilst caring for our family and trying to have a life of her own. When I am away Rachel works on the principle of ‘No news, is good news.’ By the time I did speak to her I was not feeling sorry for myself and simply told her how hard it was, how hot it was and how much my arse hurt - Aw, didums.
I went across to the ‘Club for dinner. The bar was absolutely rammed with folk. The Vets were back from their last day of fishing. Tom was on the mic telling them how proud he was to be hosting them. When this Scotsman led ‘The Star Spangled Banner’ the atmosphere was electric. From 1988 to 1989 I lived in the States so I understood how important this evening was. I enjoyed being there to experience it and have this insight to how war veterans were treated here at The Wise River Club.
Nowhere, 0 miles, 0 feet of ascent, All day
