A Teacher trying to Divide - day 14
heading down to Mike and Barbara’s place
Sunday 21st July
Not too early a start because I wanted to say goodbye and thank you to the great folks at The Wise River Club who had looked after me so well since Thursday.
A beautiful ride today with a real sense of beauty, space and commitment. The Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway was a perfect way to get back into it all again after two days off. At one point on the pavement climb I did start to sweat a bit and of course that started the pain all over again. Sitting did not really seem to be the problem. The issue was once I started to get hot and sweaty the sores got aggravated. A couple of wee stops to enjoy the view and read the interpretation boards describing the geology helped a lot. I remember looking at one section of forest that had been devastated by beetles which unfortunately are thriving in the higher average temperatures. The section around Crystal Park was lovely as the road snaked up to 7900 feet and of course the long descent which was according to my journal ‘big, swooping and downhill!’ It was also pretty cool to see the Maverick Ski Field as I passed. I then had to work a bit into a headwind. This is where the stubby aero bars I fitted really came into their own as I could comfortably hold a low position and spin a good gear. Importantly it also let me lift my rear end off the seat a bit.
Shortly after Polaris the GDMBR route meets and shares the line of the TransAmerica for a short while. The heat was blistering by now and all round all I could see was space, heat haze, gravel tracks and sagebrush, a lot of sagebrush. There was a lot of traffic coming out of Bannack State Park. Trish had told me yesterday that there was an annual fair at the Park where people dressed up in authentic clothing, sold produce and put on a show. The detour and fact that it was 3pm convinced me not to head east to the Fair.
Heading south again I was out of the wind but now I had to calmly deal with the pure, straight line of FR 1827 as it headed south over Bannack Bench and down to Clark. I knew there was some remote riding coming up in the next day or so and the next 12 miles gave me a little preview. Clark shimmered in the distance like some oasis as I kept a steady rhythm on the cranks. Two pickup trucks passed me on the way. The drivers were careful not to kick up too much dust which I appreciated.
Grant is one really quiet, deserted and run down place. I met up with two riders at the school, little did I know that further down the trail I would get to know Neville & Brian a lot better. For now we exchanged a few words and they showed me where the water facet was round the back. They then headed south for a few more miles to camp on Medicine Lodge Road.
It took me a couple of attempts to find Mike & Barbara’s place and I really should have gone with my gut reaction that it would be the nice red house that I first saw. They were true ‘Trail Angels’ who ask for nothing but give their lawn space, water and their toilet if needed. Writing this in the middle of the COVID pandemic when every day I read about people in the UK trashing the countryside as LockDown eases makes me wonder about such humbling kindness being shown to complete strangers as much in the future… Barbara treated me to two huge pieces of cake and showed me a cosy recliner chair where I could enjoy it in the early evening sun. They reminded me a lot of my own parents with their kindness.
My air bed is now just a thin sheet. Tonight I will wear some extra clothes and just sleep directly on the floor of my tent as Mike & Barbara’s lawn seems soft enough. I asked for some hot water to prepare my noodles with cheese & meat so that I would have enough gas for a coffee early in the morning before what looks to be a super-remote ride to Lima.
Wise River to Grant, 70 miles, 3663 foot of ascent, 8 hours (6 hours riding + 2 hours stopped)
