A Teacher trying to Divide - day 9
Doug at our cabin.
Tuesday 16th July
Doug and I had a leisurely start to the day as John had promised to deliver his pancake mix to Joe & Liliana at the big cabin so they could make pancakes for everyone. I brewed some fresh coffee and took it down for the four of us to enjoy together. Late last night a couple of big Dutch riders with lots of kit had arrived and pitched their tent so we had to dodge around them a little bit. After saying goodbye to Joe & Liliana, Doug and I headed back up to clean our wee cabin. We swung our legs over the top tube of our bikes and headed down to the T-junction. There we were greeted by Barbara and John walking the dog. I was so pleased to meet this amazing lady and to thank her for what she had started here. Barbara played it down low and simply reminded me that the best way to thank her and John was to ‘Pay it forward’.
This morning was the first morning where I purposefully left with another rider to ride together for the whole day. The Great Divide made me feel tiny, alone and at the same time empowered. I enjoyed the time and space to ride on my own, in my own way. At the same time it was cool to share the trail with another like minded rider, such as Curtis down into Whitefish five days ago. Doug and I spent the day talking about our families, music, our student days and our love of the great outdoors. Doug was six or seven years olders than me and although his family were ‘grown up’ we had a lot in common. The conversations were fun and easy.
We passed the disused Empire Mine then made the long, steady climb up to Continental Divide crossing #3. The navigation at the top towards Ophir Creek Road & Hope Creek was intricate and kept me on my toes using the compass function on my Garmin to make sure we were heading south and not west. Doug was perfectly happy using the ACA app but I needed to see that virtual magnetic needle!
Every climb is rewarded with a descent on the Great Divide and once we released the brakes from the top it was clear that I was not going to catch Doug on his Salsa Spearfish. An amazing bike which morphed from a solid bikepacking rig for the ups into a slick, bouncy machine for the downs! He also used to race…
The next section seemed to be downhill all the way to Blossburg and the railroad tracks. We kept pushing. The plan was to stop over in Helena. Take a motel. Chill. Laundry. Beers. Dinner. The heat was incredible and that familiar ‘ring sting’ started by 2pm. Hey ho.
When Doug and I hit Hwy 12 there were some major roadworks for the final 8 miles into town. We pretty much seemed to be on the wrong side of the road, sheltered by traffic cones whilst all the cars going the same way as us were on the other side of the trucks, loaders and tar machines.
Once we got into town we found Great Divide Cyclery where the guys where were super friendly. They helped me get a rounded out SPD cleat replaced and some new bottles with cages to load up on fluids even more. They also recommended a motel just along the road and a couple of places to eat and have beer - Lewis & Clark's Tap Rooms. At the motel Doug and I took time to unpack what needed washing then bundle it all into one machine. Doug took time for a phone call home whilst waiting for it to finish off I took a bath to try and ease my seating arrangements.
Later that evening it felt weird to walk to get some dinner and find a rammed brewery. We had a couple of beers there, I am sure Doug would have liked to have stayed (he was not riding the next day) but I had an early start in order to reach Butte.
Lost Llama Lodge to Helena 42 miles, 3434 feet of ascent, 6 hours (5 hours riding + 1 hour stopped)
